Unpack the pieces and familiarize yourself with them. The first step is to unbox the bidet, unwrap everything, and look at the instructions. Confirm that you have all the right parts and that nothing is damaged.

Shut off the plumbing and empty the toilet tank. Find the shutoff valve for the toilet, which is typically at floor level behind the toilet to the left (hopefully, you already tested it). Close it off. Then flush the toilet to purge the water from the tank. You’ll be disconnecting the supply line to the toilet, so you want to make sure that there is no water in the tank.

Remove the toilet seat. In most cases, the first step to removing a toilet seat is to pop up the two little covers at the back of the seat to expose the bolt heads. Using your wrench, grip the nut on the underside of the toilet seat, and then use your screwdriver to unscrew the bolts.

If you have a quick-connect seat, as I do, first remove the seat to gain access to the bolt heads, and then unscrew those. If the bolts are in rubber sleeves, once you’ve removed the bolts, pull the sleeves through the holes from the underside.

Unhook the water line from the toilet. Using your wrench, unscrew the water-line connection at the base of the toilet tank. Once it’s loose, tip the flexible hose into a little container to pour the water out. It’ll be a tablespoon or two.

Attach the hose to the T-valve. Many instructions say to make this connection later, once the T-valve is attached to the tank, but I find doing so at this point to be a lot easier, as it means one fewer connection to make while I’m working under the toilet tank. Confirm that the included bidet hose has rubber washers at each end and attach it to the T-valve. I use a wrench to make it nice and snug, but don’t force it; you’re just trying to make a tight seal on the rubber washer.

Tighten the T-valve to the toilet tank. The rotating nut on the T-valve connects to the threaded opening at the bottom of the toilet tank, where the supply line connected before this project. As with the above step, there’s no need to force this; just confirm that you have a rubber washer in the connection and make it snug.

Attach the water line to the T-valve. Take the end of the hose you disconnected earlier and thread it onto the bottom of the T-valve. I tighten this one with my hand, but if you don’t have the hand strength, or if the positioning is too awkward, use your wrench but go gently.

Attach the mounting plate. Most warm-water bidets require a mounting plate. The plates are all similar, but how they connect to the bowl can vary. Whereas many models use regular through-bolts, the Tushy Aura, like many other bidets, uses rubber sleeves that compress when you tighten the bolt. If this is the case, first set the rubber sleeves into the bowl holes; this is easier with the bolts still in the sleeves. Then unscrew the bolts, saving them for the next step.

Now, set the mounting plate over the holes. The Tushy Aura comes with a template to position it properly. Most models don’t have templates, and for those you may need to make some adjustments later on. Attach the plate using the elongated washers and the bolts. The bolts should be snug, but there’s no need to overtighten. A lot of mounting plates have rubber pads on the underside, so just make sure to get those snugged down to the point where you can’t move the mounting plate with your hands.

Install the bidet. This is the satisfying part. Line up the seat with the mounting plate and slide it on. You typically hear a little click when it locks in. Look for the release button, which is often on the back right of the bidet. Make sure that it works by pressing it and sliding the seat off. Reinstall the seat.

Make the final plumbing connection. You’re almost there. Just connect the bidet hose to the bidet. As with the other connections, check for a little rubber washer and get it snug.

Dry everything off and turn on the water. I always make sure to completely dry all of the connections I made before turning on the water. That way, I know that any moisture on the outside of the connections is from a leak. Then, as I’m cleaning up my tools, I’m constantly feeling all of the connections with my fingers.

Plug in your bidet, and you’re ready to go. Literally, you’re ready to go. It’s a good idea to take a little time to familiarize yourself with the controls and adjust any settings as you like.

This article was edited by Harry Sawyers and Megan Beauchamp.

Unpack the pieces and familiarize yourself with them. The first step is to unbox the bidet, unwrap everything, and look at the instructions. Confirm that you have all the right parts and that nothing is damaged.

Shut off the plumbing and empty the toilet tank. Find the shutoff valve for the toilet, which is typically at floor level behind the toilet to the left (hopefully, you already tested it). Close it off. Then flush the toilet to purge the water from the tank. You’ll be disconnecting the supply line to the toilet, so you want to make sure that there is no water in the tank.

Remove the toilet seat. In most cases, the first step to removing a toilet seat is to pop up the two little covers at the back of the seat to expose the bolt heads. Using your wrench, grip the nut on the underside of the toilet seat, and then use your screwdriver to unscrew the bolts.

If you have a quick-connect seat, as I do, first remove the seat to gain access to the bolt heads, and then unscrew those. If the bolts are in rubber sleeves, once you’ve removed the bolts, pull the sleeves through the holes from the underside.

Unhook the water line from the toilet. Using your wrench, unscrew the water-line connection at the base of the toilet tank. Once it’s loose, tip the flexible hose into a little container to pour the water out. It’ll be a tablespoon or two.

Attach the hose to the T-valve. Many instructions say to make this connection later, once the T-valve is attached to the tank, but I find doing so at this point to be a lot easier, as it means one fewer connection to make while I’m working under the toilet tank. Confirm that the included bidet hose has rubber washers at each end and attach it to the T-valve. I use a wrench to make it nice and snug, but don’t force it; you’re just trying to make a tight seal on the rubber washer.

Tighten the T-valve to the toilet tank. The rotating nut on the T-valve connects to the threaded opening at the bottom of the toilet tank, where the supply line connected before this project. As with the above step, there’s no need to force this; just confirm that you have a rubber washer in the connection and make it snug.

Attach the water line to the T-valve. Take the end of the hose you disconnected earlier and thread it onto the bottom of the T-valve. I tighten this one with my hand, but if you don’t have the hand strength, or if the positioning is too awkward, use your wrench but go gently.

Attach the mounting plate. Most warm-water bidets require a mounting plate. The plates are all similar, but how they connect to the bowl can vary. Whereas many models use regular through-bolts, the Tushy Aura, like many other bidets, uses rubber sleeves that compress when you tighten the bolt. If this is the case, first set the rubber sleeves into the bowl holes; this is easier with the bolts still in the sleeves. Then unscrew the bolts, saving them for the next step.

Now, set the mounting plate over the holes. The Tushy Aura comes with a template to position it properly. Most models don’t have templates, and for those you may need to make some adjustments later on. Attach the plate using the elongated washers and the bolts. The bolts should be snug, but there’s no need to overtighten. A lot of mounting plates have rubber pads on the underside, so just make sure to get those snugged down to the point where you can’t move the mounting plate with your hands.

Install the bidet. This is the satisfying part. Line up the seat with the mounting plate and slide it on. You typically hear a little click when it locks in. Look for the release button, which is often on the back right of the bidet. Make sure that it works by pressing it and sliding the seat off. Reinstall the seat.

Make the final plumbing connection. You’re almost there. Just connect the bidet hose to the bidet. As with the other connections, check for a little rubber washer and get it snug.

Dry everything off and turn on the water. I always make sure to completely dry all of the connections I made before turning on the water. That way, I know that any moisture on the outside of the connections is from a leak. Then, as I’m cleaning up my tools, I’m constantly feeling all of the connections with my fingers.

Plug in your bidet, and you’re ready to go. Literally, you’re ready to go. It’s a good idea to take a little time to familiarize yourself with the controls and adjust any settings as you like.

This article was edited by Harry Sawyers and Megan Beauchamp.